Fun and Simple Bag Project with Video Tutorial

 I got these adorable Coca Cola Canvas Bag Panels in recently. 

While I was making the shop sample I filmed my process since I opted to use different directions than what is printed directly on the panel. There is nothing wrong with their directions, I just wanted to make it using only a straight stitch and having no raw edges any where on the finished bag.

Here is the video:

If the video does not play for you here then you can watch it directly on my YouTube Channel by following this link: Coca Cola Canvas Tote Bag Video Tutorial

At the time of writing this I have quite a few of these bag panels:

Coca Cola Canvas Tote Bag Panel

I also have just ONE left of the same type of panel with a different motif:

Mr Bones Canvas Tote Bag Panel

To make these I used my Hot Ruler. If you don't have one of those they are pretty handy!

Hot Ruler

There is a similar product called the Hot Hemmer. I have them both, but used the Hemmer Ruler for this particular project. 

Hot Hemmer

The video tutorial is about 45 minutes long but if you aren't filming it and explaining what you are doing then you can make it a bit faster. So it's not a big investment in time or money.

The Circle Wallet :: A Free Pattern with Video Tutorial

 I've got another fun, easy and fast project for you. I'm calling it the Circle Wallet because it's made from two circles of fabric and some snaps.

The video tutorial from my shop's YouTube channel is embedded above but if you want to watch it on YouTube instead then here is the direct link to the video: Circle Wallet Video

I also wrote some basic instructions that you can download. The instructions are free - no discount code required, just free. This is the link to the pattern: Circle Wallet Pattern

You don't need the pattern as the video contains all of the instructions you'll need. But I know lots of folks like to have something you can print out or save to your device to read so that you don't have to go find a video.

Binding by Machine Video Tutorial

 I had a chance to film and edit the second "class" in my binding series. In this video I show how to sew the binding on a project completely by machine. First sewing the binding to the front of the quilt and then stitching in the ditch along the edge of the binding on the front to catch the binding on the back side of the project.

As I mentioned in the video, this is just ONE way to attach binding completely by machine. There are several other methods and in time I plan to film them all.

If you are looking for an excellent book about binding The Quilt Binding Bible is fabulous! The book covers 25 ways to bind something. Some of the methods involve hand sewing others are done completely by machine. It's full of great information with good written instructions and lots of full color photographs. Want to learn how to bind with prairie points? It's in the book. Want to add a ruffle as binding? It's in the book. Want to do a facing, this technically isn't binding but, it's covered in the book. Got something with weird angles along the outside edge? The book goes over several ways to finish those edges. Want to just wrap the backing fabric around to the front and have it look nice? Those corners can be tricky but it's in the book. Do you need to cut your binding on the bias or will straight grain be fine? All that is covered in the book. Can you tell I really like this book?

I ordered quite a few copies of this book but they are selling rapidly. I've already ordered more so if you click the link and it says "sold out" - I've got more ordered. You can contact me and I'll hold a copy for you then let you know when your copy is here.

FREE Burrito PillowCase PDF pattern and a video tutorial

 My newest FREE pattern is the Burrito PillowCase PDF pattern. This one is just plain free, as in the price $0.00 - no coupon code required.

I also filmed myself making one. You don't need a copy of the pattern as I give you all of the information you need in the video, but if you are someone who likes to have a printed pattern you can get a copy for free. The fabric requirements also listed in the video description on YouTube. 

If the embedded video doesn't work on your device here is the link to video on my YouTube Channel: Burrito Pillowcase Video Tutorial

If you watch the video on YouTube please consider subscribing to my channel. That's a free way you can support my shop.

My Favorite Binding Method :: A Video Tutorial

 I often tell my customers that there are at least 15 correct ways to do binding. I don't know if there are exactly 15 ways to bind a quilt, but there are definitely a lot of correct ways to bind a quilt. My favorite method is to sew the binding to the front of the quilt by machine and hand sew it to the back of the quilt. In this video I show you how I do this process.

As I say in the video, this is just ONE way to bind a quilt - my favorite way. If you do it differently that is just fine.

If the embedded video above does not play for you or you would just prefer to watch it on YouTube, click the following link: Lynn's Favorite Binding Method Video Demo

While you are over on my YouTube channel, if you wouldn't mind subscribing to our YouTube channel that would be nice. If you don't want to subscribe, no worries, but more subscribers tells YouTube that my videos have value, which can help my shop in other ways besides sales. Essentially, it's a free way for you to support the shop.

Square in a Square Pillow Pattern :: Free for a Limited Time

 I have a new pattern with companion step by step video tutorial. I'm offering the pattern for FREE for a short time. Use the code FreePatternJAN2025 to get the pattern for free through Thursday, January 30, 2025 at 6pm USA Mountain Time. If you are finding this after the free time period, all the links below should still work and the pattern is still available, it's just not free.

If you'd like to snag yourself a copy of the pattern then click this link: Square in a Square Pillow Pattern. The pattern is sold as a digital download only. If you want a printed copy of the pattern then you'll need to purchase a kit: Square in a Square Pillow Kit. All of the kits will include a printed copy of the pattern. The digital pattern and the printed pattern both include the link to the free video tutorial.

Here are photos of the pillow cover without a pillow form inside.

First is the front side:

Back side:

Here is a link to the step by step video tutorial. Note that I do not give any measurements in the video so you really need to have the pattern in order to follow along with the video instructions.

If the embedded video doesn't work for you here is a direct link to the video on my YouTube Channel: Square in a Square Pillow Video

How to Make a Basic Bowl with Rope

 I've been trying to do more video content but I don't really like to be on camera. Editing the videos is a learning experience and time consuming. I am getting better but I never thought I'd be filming and editing videos as part of my job. You just never know what skills you'll need in life!

I made a video demonstrating how to make a basic bowl with rope. It's kind of a mini class. It's not perfect, but I think you can get the idea and learn something which is more important than perfection. Because I show you a lot of things in the video it's what I would consider a long video - about 36 minutes. I show you everything though: how to start the bowl, how to change rope colors, how to tip up the bottom and make the sides of the bowl and a loop finish. I also share some tips and tricks.

The video from YouTube is embedded below:

If the video above doesn't play for you, here is the direct link to the video on the shop YouTube Channel: Rope Bowl Demonstration from Alamosa Quilt Company  If you go directly to YouTube via the link would you consider subscribing to my YouTube Channel? It would help my rankings on YouTube to get some new subscribers.

I am using two colors of rope that I sell in my shop. My favorite rope to sew with is the 3/16" diameter rope from the Mountain Thread Company. I carry several colors of it as well as the natural color in my shop. Click the following link to check out the rope sewing supplies I have in stock: Rope Sewing Supplies from Alamosa Quilt Company

Potato Chip Block (Variation 2) Sew Along :: Putting the Blocks Together

 I used sashing and corner stones to complete my quilt top using the 12 blocks that I made. If you made 12 blocks and you want to finish your blocks the way I did, the directions are below.

You will need (31) 2" by 12.5" for the sashing and (20) 2" by 2" squares of scraps for the corner stones. If you used the larger 2.5" by 4.5" potato chip pieces, then you need (31) 2.5" by 16.5" rectangles for the sashing and (20) 2.5" by 2.5" squares of scraps for the corner stones.

Using the (20) squares of scraps and (15) of the sashing rectangles, make 5 strips for the horizontal sashing. Each row needs to start and end with a square and have three sashing rectangles in between the squares. See the photo below for what you need to make.

Next you are going to add the remaining (16) sashing rectangles in between the blocks. You'll need to make four rows of three blocks with sashing rectangles in between the blocks and on both ends. See the photo below for a sample of what you need to make.

Note that the photo above only shows two rows but you need to make four rows. I alternated the orientation of the blocks but honestly, it really doesn't matter.

And here is my finished top!

If you missed the block instructions click the following link for those: Potato Chip Block (variation 2) instructions

If you missed the contest info click the following link: How to enter the blocks you made in the drawing

Note that the deadline for entry is Friday, July 5, 2024 at midnight.

Potato Chip Block (variation 2) Sew Along Progress

 How are doing with your Potato Chip variation 2 blocks? I have four blocks completed and the other eight are in progress.

If you missed the instructions for these fun blocks, click the following link for them: Potato Chip Block Variation 2 Instructions

Potato Chip Block (Variation 2) Sew Along :: Making the Blocks

This post contains all of the directions for making ONE Potato Chip Block (Variation 2). The instructions to make the original Potato Chip Block can be found by clicking the following link: Original Potato Chip Block

I cut scraps for most of this quilt. All of the "chip" pieces are scraps. I did use a single fabric as my accent fabric, but you could just pick a color and use a variety of fabrics of the same color. If you want to use the same fabric for the accent as I did, you'll need 1 to 1 1/2 yards of it depending on the size of chips you use and whether or not you add sashing between your blocks.

Finished size of one block is 12" by 12" (12.5" by 12.5" unfinished)

What you need for ONE block:

(30) 2" by 3.5" rectangles (chips) from scrap fabrics 

(12) 2" by 2" squares and (1) 3.5" by 3.5" square from a single fabric (I'm using a white on white)

{Note: You can also use (30) 2.5" by 4.5" chips from scraps and (12) 2.5" by 2.5" and (1) 4.5" by 4.5". If you use the larger size chips then your blocks will finish at 16" by 16".}

Draw a diagonal line on the back of all twelve of your 2" squares {or 2.5" squares}.

Pick 12 chip pieces. We are going to do the stitch and flip method to add these 2" squares {2.5" squares} to your chip pieces. Be sure to look closely at the photo below so that you sew them on correctly. Half of them have the diagonal line running one direction, the other half have the diagonal line running the other direction. This is important! 

These units are not symmetric so you can't just flip it over and have it be correct. Sew directly on the drawn line. Then cut off the excess 1/4" away from the sewn line.

Press the seam. I just flipped the little white triangle over and pressed toward the white triangle. You can press the other way or press your seam open.

Using just four of these, two of each kind, sew them together in pairs along the short side like in the photo below.

Sew one chip piece to opposite sides of the 3.5" square {or 4.5" square}. Press away from the center or toward the center, whichever way makes most sense to you. Throughout, I pressed everything away from the center.

Now take the paired pieces and add them to the top and bottom of the center unit.

Using four chip pieces, sew them together in pairs along the short side.

Now add these units to the block using the image below as a guide.

Next you need four of the chips with added accent triangles, two each of both kinds, and two chip pieces. Notice the white arrows along the left hand side of the image below. These are pointing to what you need to make.

Then sew these to the block and it will look like the image below.

Now you need 6 chip pieces. Sew them together in a row of three along the short sides. In the image below the white arrows along the top are pointing to what you are making.

Then sew these to the sides of the block. It should look like the block in the image below.

Almost done! You should have four chip pieces with the attached accent triangle left, two of each kind. Sew a chip piece to each along the short side without the accent triangle. Then sew these together along the short side of the chip pieces making sure that you have one of each kind of accent triangle on the ends. White arrows along the left hand side are pointing to the units you are making in the image below.

Attach them to the center and the block is done.

Again, if you use 2" by 3.5" chip pieces like me, your blocks should measure 12.5" by 12.5" at this point. When the quilt is done they will measure 12" by 12". If you are using 2.5" by 4.5" chip pieces, your block should measure 16.5" by 16.5" at this point and will measure 16" by 16" when the quilt is done.

I am making 12 blocks. I'm going to give you a week to get as many blocks as you want to make done before giving you the finishing instructions. I will be adding sashing and corner stones to my blocks. 

As incentive for you to get some blocks made, at some point next Monday I will post a photo of the blocks I have completed. Hopefully it will be 12 blocks, but I might not get that far. In that post will be instructions as to how you can let me know how many blocks you have completed and a deadline for when you need to have done that. You will need to show me a photo of your completed blocks or bring them into the shop by the deadline. Don't worry, you'll have a couple days to do this.

Every completed block you make will get you one entry in the prize drawing. Depending on how many people participate I might draw more than one name. The prize will be a bag of scraps. Don't worry, there will be no tiny pieces. Scraps from my shop are no smaller than 2" with most being 3" or larger. These are leftovers from shop samples and end of bolt pieces that are smaller than 18". This is only for folks in the US. 

If you are not in the US you can still participate, but the prize will be a PDF pattern that I can just email to you as shipping is prohibitive for mailing scraps outside the country. If you win a bag of scraps, and live in the US, I will pay to ship them to you if you aren't local. If you are local, then you can just come pick it up at the shop.

Another Sew Along is in the Works

 I started cutting more potato chip pieces (2" by 3 1/2" pieces) in April and told my Facebook Sew Along Group (Alamosa Quilt Company Sew Along Group) that I was going to do another sew along with these in May. Well, May is almost over. I got sidetracked with "business stuff" that required my immediate attention. Then I was trying to do too much at once with this project. I have several different variations planned that I want to share with you. I was trying to do that all at once, but I think one at a time will work better for me, and you too probably. So my plan is to release one variation every few weeks, until I've exhausted my ever growing list of variations of this fun block.

So, the first variation of the potato chip block will be released on Monday, June 10, 2024. I'm going to release the instructions right here and post a link to my blog in the Sew Along Group on Facebook. If you are a blog follower then you are already in the right place for the Sew Along information.

You will need (30) 2" by 3 1/2" rectangles (these are the potato chips) and then you need (12) 2" squares and (1) 3 1/2" square of a single fabric per block. I am planning to make 12 of these blocks for my quilt. If I don't add sashing or borders then the quilt will finish at 36" by 48". I am using a white fabric, but black is also a good choice. Really anything will work, as long as you stick with the same fabric. The blocks for this size chip will finish at 12".

If you use the larger size chips (2 1/2" by 4 1/2") then you need (12) 2 1/2" squares and (1) 4 1/2" square per block. You'll still need (30) 2 1/2" by 4 1/2" chips per block. The blocks for this size chip will finish at 16".

How to make a Quilted, Divided Cup {Photo Heavy}

 First, let me just say that this is not my original idea. I got this idea from a woman in the Birmingham (AL) Quilt Guild. Her Bee made these to sell in their boutique at a recent quilt guild show. My mom bought one of them and gave it to me as a gift. Here it is:

I was able to get the basic instructions so I thought I would share them with you in case you want to make one (or a bunch) too.

What you will need: two 12" squares of fabric and one 12" square of a thin, flat batting. I used fusible fleece and fused the fleece to the square that will be the outside fabric of my little divided cup.

Layer your fabrics right sides together and place the batting on the top or bottom of the fabrics. Since I used fusible fleece, I fused the fleece to the back side of the exterior fabric - the large purple/pink floral in the photo above. 

Starting toward the middle of one edge, start sewing all the way around the outside of the square with a 1/4" seam allowance, leaving an opening for turning. Be sure to back stitch when you start and stop stitching on either side of the opening left for turning. In the photo below, the opening has been left in between the two pins at the bottom of the square.

I like to clip the corners at an angle before turning to reduce the bulk in the corners.

Turn this right side out (the fabrics should be right side out with the batting in between the two fabrics). Take the time to gently poke out the corners and press everything nice and flat.

Topstitch all the way around the outside edge about 1/8" from the outside edge. This will also close the opening left for turning.

Quilt your square however you would like, but I'm going to give you a simple suggestion. You can pin baste first if you want but I just pressed it nice and flat then used my walking foot to quilt it to minimize any shifting that will occur.

Quilting suggestion: using your walking foot, start quilting about 1/2" down from one corner. I lined up the outside edge of my walking foot with the line of topstitching along the outside edge. Spiral all the way around the square in this way. When you get back to where you started, stop stitching about 1/2" or so before you reach the previous line of stitching, pivot your square with the needle down and keep spiraling into the center.

            

In the photo below you can see how I am using my walking foot to know where to stop stitching and pivot. The previous line of quilting is right at the front corner (where the scissors are pointing). I stop here an pivot then keep stitching. Do this until you have spiraled all the way into the middle of the square.

Below you can see the quilted square. I quilted it from the lining because I fused the batting (fusible fleece) to the outside fabric. I wasn't worried about anything shifting on that side so I quilted from the unfused, lining side. I think you can see the quilting better on this side rather than the lining side.

Lay your quilted square on your table with the exterior fabric facing up. Fold the quilted square in half. The lining fabric should be facing you now.

At the two folded corners, draw a 4" long line from the fold to the outside edge that is 45 degrees from both the folded edge and the outside edge.

Sew on each drawn 4" long line, back stitching at the beginning and ending. It will look like the photo below at this stage.

Now you need to do the same thing with the other two corners. These are a little more difficult to mark and sew because you've already got two corners done, but just squish things flat so that you can get it done. Clips are helpful with this part!

It will look like the photos below at this point.

You've got a few choices at this point. You can just turn it right side out and call it done!

Or, you can turn it right side out and hand stitch all four corner points together to form the divided cups.

Or, you can do this in stages by machine. Before turning it right side out, first stitch the two adjacent corners together. 

Fold two adjacent corners together.

Get this under your needle the best way you can. I dropped my stitch length down to around 1mm.

I sewed forward, then backward, then forward again.

Repeat this process for the other set of adjacent corners. It will look like the image below before you turn it right side out.

Then turn it right side out. You can leave it like this, with one large area and two smaller ones.

Or you can fold down the top peaks as best you can and stitch the corner sets together.

This might be a challenge to get under your needle but it can be done. You only need to do a few tacking stitches to hold the corners all together in the middle of the cup.

Now you can enjoy your Quilted Divided Cup!

As an added detail, you could fold down the peaks and put a button or something else to hold them down. In the photo below I just pinned one peak down to give you a visual of the idea.

I want to make a video of me sewing one of these for those who prefer to watch videos rather than read. Unfortunately, I'm not there yet. I am still trying to get the correct set-up for filming and it has been a real challenge for me to this point. I'm not giving up and if I get a video done I will edit this post to include a link to the video. Until then, you just have to read and look at the pictures.